Corrida de toros/Bullfight

Plaza de Toros

May starts bullfighting season in Madrid and we went to tonight’s event with excellent seats in the shade (vs. sun) on the lower deck.

Tonight’s event featured El Fandi, one of the best bullfighters in the world and No. 1 in Spain.

Daniel Luque during his second fight.

The third bullfighter (there are three, each takes on two bulls) was a special treat: Daniel Luque, 19. He got two standing ovations and earned an ear from the second bull, which weighed 610 kg (over 1300 pounds).

(pictures to come. we took about 500 between the two of us…)

Mi ciudad/My city

We arrived in Madrid safe and sound yesterday (I drove.) After dropping off the car, we walked around my neighborhood, my market, where I lived. My cheese man was still there, selling his many, many cheeses.

We took a nice paseo through town (40 minute walk) to the center, Sol. I was surprised how easily the streets and their names came back to me. It felt good.

Madrid is a walking town, and we’ve been doing a lot of it. Last night we went for tapas: gambas al ajillo (shrimp in olive oil and garlic), manchego cheese (hard Spanish cheese), patatas bravas (little fried potatoes with a spicy tomato sauce). Today we ate at one of my favorite restaurants: La sonabresa. The menú del día includes a bottle of wine, 2 courses and dessert.

Josh: pisto manchego (ratatouille), salmón a la planca (grilled salmon), tarta de bombón chocolate (chocolate mousse cake)
Jackie: gazpacho, mero con tomate (fried grouper with tomato sauce and french fries), milhoja (cream between puff pastry)

We had churros for breakfast and had the calamares at the grandmas’ tonight, but the grandma’s weren’t there. (Calamari was still excellent.) We’ll probably go back tomorrow, just for one last chance to see them — and another ración de calamares.

Three things I’m excited about – Jackie

Calamari/octopus/seafood
There is a restaurant/bar in Madrid operated by two older women I call “the grandmas.” The bar has a glass case full of fish, meat and vegetables. As you place your order, one of the grandma’s walks along the case and scoops your order into a dish, then turns around and grills or hand batters and fries your selection. In the northern region of Galicia, the specialty is pulpo ala gallega — tender boiled octopus with garlic and paprika. Asturias has anchoas (anchovies.) And the Basques have chipirones en su tinta (squids in their own ink.)

Mercat Boquerìa
I never had a sweet tooth (cookies don’t count) until I lived in Spain. Candy (chuches) is everywhere — train stations, corner stores, markets. Gummy candy in every shape and flavor can be bought, in bulk, before your morning commute.

Mercat Boquerìa in Barcelona had the largest selection and quantity of chuches I’ve ever seen. Although I have to watch my sugar, just a few small gummy candies satisfy the sweet craving.

Madrid
I made Madrid my home. I knew a cheese man at the market who cut me a deal on my manchego each week. I read the El mundo newspaper nearly every day. I acquired favorite restaurants, cafes, neighborhoods and loved leading visitors and friends there. Spain taught me to make time for myself, which I didn’t consider important before. Spain made me a sudoku master, a shopper and a walker. I learned to trust myself and near-strangers when things went wrong.
My experience in Spain became a huge part of who I am today. Going back feels like visiting a childhood friend — they might not recognize who you are today, but they know how you got to where you are.